No big updates, just has to change out thee UVB bulb to another bulb since it was almost a year since the last change - I moved some plants around from the column tank to this tank (just still trying to find a nice way to tie them down since the turtle keeps moving them all over the tank). Once I do another tank cleaning (as the substrate is somewhat dirty again due to the breakdown of lettuce over time), I'll throw up some more photos!
Posts by Avery
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Since many of the tanks tend to slowly drain tanks to evaporation, how often do you make sure to keep your tank at any given level to avoid any issues with sanity levels being thrown off (or other levels building a tad too higher than one would like)? Do you have an automatic refill system that you use (ex; a sump that will keep the main display tank filled up at the correct levels while the sump may drain over time), or do you manually do it every single time?
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Have you ever tried to repair any damage to your tanks, that would have caused it for not be filled without any repair (glass crack, frame issues, silicone problems, or even the brace breaking and causing for the tank to bow)? If you have, can you share you experience and what exactly was wrong with the tank, since I think dependent on the issue, many believe that it's not possible without a bunch of experience (or at all). I can't tell you how many tanks that I see being tossed in the trash, posted online for free, etc. that are damaged and are a unique tank design (or a tank that isn't sold anymore from the manufacture).
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I currently have a 40 gallon breeder turtle tank that has some fish inside of it, along with a 15 gallon column tank. I'm about to start working on either a 75 gallon tank or possibly a ~100-120 gallon tank that is more wide for my turtle once I move, but buying all of the equipment needed now and most especially working on the driftwood basking area that I have for the bigger tank size.
Algae is always an issue, and when it comes to my turtle tank, a big issue as there is additional lighting for the turtle that just promotes the growth of it all over the driftwood and glass walls. I've either manually cleaned it with a rough sponge, or in some cases I let the Malaysian Trumpet snails do the rest of the work in areas that I can't see (like the driftwood, or in spots that I just can't get due to how the tank is against a wall).
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Do any of you own or actively use those lighting fixtures that replicate some of the real world aspects like clouds in the sky moving around, lightning in a storm, and other aspects? I'm super curious on how the fish react (many may not really notice, however those that are sensitive to many light changes)? Do you see any additional benefits that may reflect a hugely positive success that would make you want to recommend these light to others, or is it just for the cool factor when people come into your house and see your aquarium replicating a storm, for example?
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Whenever you get any new shrimp, it's noted to make sure that you fully acclimate them correctly to reduce any possible stress that they may have. However, once you add them into the tank they may start to get stressed due to the brand new environment, if you have any fish or types of shadows that move which may spook them out, and other factors like noise and water flow that they could get caught in randomly. How do you manage to make sure that they aren't stressed too heavily and make the acclimate process fully?
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I've had rainbow sharks and red tail sharks in a few different tanks before, although I think the biggest issue with the freshwater labeled sharks is that their size and aggression varies widely. For example, the Bala shark gets massive and requires about a 100 gallon tank alone, then we see the smaller sharks (rainbow and red tail) that are extremely aggressive as they age and require 55-75 gallon tanks (ideally either as a sole species or as a species only tank to spread out aggression) as they mark our their territory and will defend it from any fish who may want to enter.
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The biggest natural method to clean the tank, substrate, plants, or even any decorations would be to use white vinegar. It's natural, actually pretty cheap compared to other cleaners, and it won't be harmful if some is accidentally left inside when you put the fish back in (unlike bleach which requires HEAVY cleaning and verification that there is none left, otherwise in small traces it is fatal).
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I do believe that using actual reef corals are highly beneficial compared to using none, or using ones that aren't alive. The way that the fish interact with them to either hide within, get cleaned, or use as their home, is one of the biggest benefits. Additionally, it also makes the fish feel more secure and therefore they will interact with their environment with less stress, and therefore act more natural as they would within the ocean.
As far as being too big or possibly crushing them, this is where when you place them inside of your tank that you make sure that they are secured in one way or another (just as you would with rocks to make sure that a fish couldn't ever move the substrate and might cause for them to shift and fall).
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As far as treating, there are a few different types of natural ways to cure some diseases (fungal, or parasitic mostly), but it's not a widespread solution that can solve the vast majority of diseases. Some of the natural ways include; using aquarium salt, raising the temperature of the water, and also even using specific ingredients in their food like garlic.
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Do you prefer to add in a bunch of colorful or dull color looking fish to your tanks? This can even include those where you only may have a few handful of fish, or tanks that are setup to not just be species specific (since their coloration may change and/or it would obviously only be 1 color set in your tank).
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Do you use a protein skimmer within your refugium? If so, can you explain your layout in terms of the flow of water coming out of your main tank and then being replaced back into it?
Have you ever needed to use a filter sock to make sure that there wasn’t anything from your refugium being sucked back into your main tank?
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When you go out to purchase your food for your tanks, do you tend to stick to name brands or those brands that are local (if they sell any). I’ve seen a bunch of shops have their own food brand, or even have a container that you can scoop out of and pay based on the weight taken.
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What makes you the most afraid of owning any type of amphibian, and do you think that will change if you had the proper time to setup their tank, get the right equipment, and learn all of the right care for them?
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We have released a few different styles of dark themes, all with their name containing the color that it will focus on (ex; “Dark Green” means the style will be dark and focus on the color Green).
You can toggle under “Control Panel > General” and changing the “Style” option from Default to one that you want. Let us know how you like them, and we’ll try to add in more over time. Thanks!
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With a bunch of tanks that can have fish or just corals in them, but still having issues with the sand/substrate collecting algae (commonly green, purple, and brown), how do you prevent it in your tank?
Do you commonly stir the substrate to make sure that it turns over as debris collects to prevent algae? Do you have any other method at all to take care of it?
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Although many of us try to make sure we provide the corals we buy with all of the love and care possible, sometimes they sadly end up dying and turned bleached (white in color). When this happens, do you take it out of the tank and toss them, or do you keep them in there still?
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To keep an update, the new themes have been set. We’re just going through them now to match the footer and header items from our current default theme, to those as well.
I’ll post an update once they have been all released for everyone to pick their own in their user profile.
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I’d probably say that my favorite is Auratus Cichlids, since in a species only tank man are they beautiful in terms of their coloration but also based on the way that they interact with each other (given enough space).
With the females (or not dominant males) being a lovely yellow, with white and thin blue stripe - and males being a lovely blue, black, with a white/yellow stripe.