In all of your tanks do you have the same substrate, or do you use different substrates and colors even if you have leftover bags from previous tanks?
Posts by Avery
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Out of all of the different types of algae that you can have in your tank, what is the hardest type of algae that you have encountered that just didn’t want to go away? What was your solve for that and what finally let you remove it fully and permanently?
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The only real difference between them is mostly what type of plant, and how much sunlight it requires. Plants like dwarf hair grass, Anubias nana tend to be in those packages since they are smaller and require sunlight on multiple sides than just from the top down (where a tube would prevent much sunlight from even hitting the plant fully).
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If you have recently purchased any plants or moss balls from Petco/Petsmart, or someone who uses the same Breeder as them, you may want to be on the look out for these highly invasive mussels.
Quote from Native Invasive Species Awareness WeekDisplay MoreAn important alert from USGS NAS. Please read information below and share broadly!
There has been a troubling sighting report from Seattle. A PetCo employee has been finding zebra mussels attached and inside moss balls sold as aquarium plants.
This has been entered into NAS and USGS has been in contact with the WA AIS community. The more significant danger is these moss balls being distributed across the U.S.
Here is the NAS specimen report for more information.
https://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/Specim…cimenID=1656916
An alert has been generated that matched your criteria from the Nonindigenous Aquatic Species database:
Dreissena polymorpha (zebra mussel) was found in a new State, County, Drainage
Details:
State: WA
County: King
Drainage: Puget Sound (17110019)
Location: [Hitchhiker on pet store plants]
NAS ARM map was not generated because we presume the introduction has failed.
Zebra mussels have been found in shipments of Marimo moss balls (an aquarium plant) that are sold at pet stores.
More information on this specimen can be found:
https://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/specim…cimenID=1656916
More information on this species can be found:
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Super late reply, but yes! Mine has them in stock in low quantities. Might be everywhere now.
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I’ve seen them in some stores although at very low stock. Plus their prices aren’t the best for the quality of shrimp in terms of colors that you get.
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I’ve owned them once or twice, they can be really fun but the issue is that many stores keep them in pure freshwater which isn’t good for them. Also make sure that you cover every single hole since they are escape artists, and they do need a place with land so they can escape the water fully.
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I mostly soak mine is a mixture of vinegar and water for a few hours. Then depending on if there is anything dirty, I use a magic eraser with water and scrub it all off (or use those like bathroom toilet brushes to get into the tighter, smaller spots).
If something is toxic about it, depending on what it is I may use a diluted bleach mixture and then soak in water with prime for days. But that’s very, very rare at best.
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When you either notice something is off, or if you use one regularly, so you use any tools or devices to detect or track any diseases in your tank(s)?
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Between the two, which is your go to (or your avoid at all costs) option and why?
Have you kept any species from either category, and if so, how did it end up?
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It depends on where it’s going. If I know it’s going somewhere cold, I’ll add heating pads - likewise if it’s going somewhere hot, I’ll add cooling pads to try to not overcook or overheat.
As far as medicine, I avoid feeding 2 days before shipping (with next day shipping bring a requirement) in order for them to not poop and ammonia poison themselves from stress. I also add in some stress relief, with a tad of prime just in case levels get a little high.
I’ve never personally shipped or received a fish from outside of my native country (US), so no clue how how to even manage that since many countries can take over 30 days with port inspections and delays.
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Many say that Discus are hard to keep due to their specific water parameters requirements, but I think there are a ton that can also fall into that due to their diet (such as freshwater puffers, and not the pea puffers) or due to their size as an adult (Bala Sharks for example get massive).
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I’ve noticed since the pandemic that a lot of the common fish stores tend to now have breeders who have more genetic issues, or they are seemingly coming in with more illnesses than before (or normal). I’m not sure if this is due to them having to hold the fish longer and therefore overstocking the tanks before shipment, or if something else is going on.
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You mostly want to look for any pure white on them, or for there too be no color (and for some they do not open up even if in the right parameters).
Do you have any photos by chance?
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Looks like they just changed the ads and wording to be the “50% off sale” - not sure if we will see this progress after this sale date or not, but something to be aware of in case you walk in and don’t see the normal signage for the $1/gal sale.
Have to love marketing changing things around.
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Yeah I noticed this as well, and dependent on if it stays this way in the future I will change some of the wording in here as they updated it. It does however stays roughly the same price for 29 gallons and below (maybe a few cents in difference).
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I’ve honestly wondered this as well. I’d assume if more freshwater species get added that are harder to breed, and if there is a big enough demand along with stores willing to stock a saltwater variant - it may be possible. Although I wouldn’t really count on it since I feel like those who buy them and their glofish tanks (which are painfully small and overpriced), probably won’t pay double what a saltwater fish is for the GloFish aspect added to it.
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I mostly believe that they have it this way since freshwater fish are normally far easier to reproduce in captivity, whereas saltwater are still mostly taken directly from the ocean (although this is improving as time goes on).
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Please let us know if you have any suggestions or complaints about the theme. I’be personally tested it on my device in various browsers but nah not have accounted for every use case.
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I know that with any type of coral, it really is all about making sure that you have the right lighting, nutrients, and also making sure the tank parameters are setup correctly.
Having any one of those off tends to be stressful to the coral, which can over time kill it (or it can die in the transition from store to your tank when acclimating if done incorrectly too).
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Have you recently walked in a pet store, and noticed that a lot of the newer tanks (specifically below 30 gallons) tend to now use a mixture of plastic and glass, or glass and acrylic? I feel like when we get more unique designs using items such as black lit lighting, floor lighting, or various coated glass (such as darker glass) they tend to go without full glass all over.
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I always use root tabs before I add substrate, and then liquid fertilizers as time goes on. I’m sure you could push down a ton of root tabs into the substrate again if you wanted too or more near the roots of plants if you used like sand (feel like gravel would be a PITA to push down and not have others try to float up).
