Posts by Gilbert

    I remember keeping Sea Monkey before I even knew that they were just brine shrimp. I tried to keep a smaller hatchery but never could manage to get them to stay alive past a few weeks (might have been the free floating algae not growing for me which was a pain).


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    Use small parts of plastic or glass siliconed at the bottom of the tank to prevent them from mixing. Note that this won’t stop fish who move substrate via mouth like cichlids from redecorating what you had made.


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    I think it really depends on how big of a tank that you have, and how much money you want to spend for their care (primarily their food since shells get extremely pricey very fast).

    The same applies to even freshwater puffers since if you do not keep their beck in check, it will kill them as their beck will grow and puncture their skin and face area.


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    Negative, it holds it in the start but that’s really about it. Water is just water, and all the vast majority of the beneficial bacteria is held within the filter media you are using (substrate if undergravel filter, of filter pads if using a traditional filter).


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    How do you tell how many fish can fit in a tank?

    I think that is something that is a very good question. Maybe people used to do the fish per gallon rule, but now a days it’s all about what is compatible in terms of getting along, while also seeing what and how they interact with their environment when they are full sized adults. Never do any calculations in their current size since many can go from peaceful to aggressive as they mature, or can get huge fast and results in you having too small of a tank.

    I think AqAdvisor has a saltwater app now to check that with too.


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    A lot of the time fin rot is from poor water quality (could be too small of a tank, ammonia spike, etc.) or from another tank mate that is attacking them during the night or when no one is looking.

    It’s hard to see the white aspects you mention, but if it’s turning white before disappearing, I’d just do a massive water change, and keep on doing water changes for two weeks daily (like >50% water changes). I’d also add in some Maracyn medicine (most fin rot medicines do not use that but use other less useful chemicals).


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    I honestly did a ton of research trying to figure out which fish I wanted - but I mostly set the tank up first with all of the decorations and then plan around that (since I feel like planning for the fish first makes sense for some higher end species but making it ideal can limit how your tank will look like in the end).


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    Holy crap that Points Of Interest that shows all of the stores looks like an absolutely HUGE task - but it’s extremely helpful since you find places that are specifically local and even call them or look at what other people say that may have been there before via the comments.

    I wish you the best of luck finishing that, since I know focusing on the US and then other countries is probably the line of order and there are hundreds of thousands of entries I bet that will end up on there.


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    100% recommend that you go the biggest you can since it allows for more chance that water parameters get out of wack (takes more time to have an effect), allows for you to get more fish to add in which give the tank a better display view, let’s you grow as time goes on (moving from community fish to maybe cichlids), and let’s you get fish in almost every single zone possible.


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    I’ve never used them, but they do work if they are within their valid window. The only issue is that ammonia will report even if it has been locked by something like Prime, so the results can be confusing depending on your water parameters.


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    I would totally say there is a difference, for sure with saltwater being more harder and demanding as more parameters need to be in check (and even at a base price, saltwater fish and equipment is more expensive while you are trying to learn and understand any issues you may have with your tank).


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