Posts by Avery

    I took out the Amazon sword from this tank since it was getting way too large. Additionally, I just noticed my filter died (or was dying) since the GPH flow was extremely slow and caused a huge bacterial bloom. Just replaced the whole filter unit with a bigger one (rated for 20 gallons with adjustable flow). Once this bacterial bloom goes away I’ll take some updated photos to show, as I have a nice green algae growing on parts of the fake tree root which has a very nice appeal.

    It seems they have been doing this this past year every other month, or sometimes a week or two off, before another sale. Not sure if they have a bunch of inventory left to sell, or if they are seeing good results from people purchasing other aquarium-related items during these event dates.

    It's known to be an issue for some animals (specifically, those who may drink or eat it directly or indirectly), but it's not really known to be an issue when it comes to harming fish - but it will cover your plants if you have any in the tank and kill them off completely (by preventing them from being able to capture any light from its leaves).

    It's highly recommended to remove it either through a natural treatment (for example; getting more powerheads or water movement where it seems to be more centered on/at), or use an algae treatment to remove it from the tank.

    Have you ever adjusted or tried to optimize your protein skimmer to ensure it was running more effectively for the way you have it set up in your tank?

    Did you ever find anything that worked just right, and what were some of the lessons that didn't work out nicely that you would want to share for others to learn from?

    I would say no. If only 1 line is being used, then the excess air that is spread across the other 3 lines would end up being forced through the only open line. A caveat to this is if the pump has internal piping to avoid this situation and would just let the excess air out beneath the unit (for example).

    I’d just recommend connecting the 3 closed lines to a single tube and then using that, or more ideally, downsizing the unit to just have the number of open ports you would need to use in your setup.

    Do you have a specific budget in mind? I’m assuming that you currently run a canister filter since you noted not wanting to run with any HOB filters or HOB-like skimmers, so you'd for sure have to stay with something that can be added as an in-line unit to your canister filter flow. The only reason I ask is that some of the protein skimmers depend on the flow rate of your canister filter to function properly and have enough flow in general.

    I’d say Topaz Cichlid (Archocentrus myrnae) based on their eye colors, and the common trait of them having a black dot in the middle of their body.

    I know that the switch to LEDs was huge for the aquarium industry, which also shows as everything else is heading to full LEDs. In terms of the next lighting evolution, it really might depend on the cost she uses (a reef tank will have completely different needs than a planted tank). It also will be based on cost-effectiveness, since when LEDs first came out they were extremely pricey as well which made it hard for anyone to afford them outside of commercial or professional standpoints.

    I would either have the protein skimmer away from where you are feeding (opposite side of the tank for example), and also make sure to push the food within the water vs. leaving it floating on the top where it may be skimmed up accidentally.

    I've never turned mine off, but I have bigger tanks where the fish all head to where the food is on the other side. If you have a smaller tank, I'd probably recommend more than likely turn it off when feeding to make sure that your food doesn't just end up getting in the filter vs. feeding those fish.

    I'd always just ended up replacing the full glass panel for many reasons.

    Depending on whether it's a chip or crack, you could technically repair chips although there is always the worry that if there was any other damage near/on the fixed chip, it would break/spread easier than now.

    I believe you can fill a chip with the water within there, although if it's cracked (even tiny), you need to replace it completely.

    I would give it time, or try to avoid feeding for a day or two and then use that as food so that they will go after it and eat it. I’d also try to maybe coat them in flakes (if you have any) so that they can get used to the new food size and taste/smell (as many fish are extremely picky over this).

    I currently use a piece of fake driftwood for my African Dwarf Frog tank, and I think the quality is great. I haven’t had any issues with the paint chipping, fading, or random things growing on it (like with other super cheaply painted or made units). For me, it looks kinda fake but once you add in some live plants they kinda help sell that it may be real.

    I wouldn’t honestly worry too much these days - and for a very good reason. Before, many light fixtures were powered by bulbs which, dependent on the fixture and bulb type, had an average lifespan of a year or a couple of years before they went out (or got so dim you couldn’t really use them anymore). Nowadays, almost all light fixtures are powered by LEDs which have a very long lifespan (>10 years on average), and they won’t explode if you accidentally get a drop of water on them when doing water changes.

    If you are buying used light fixtures, I’d try to avoid high-powered units since they must have fans or the lights get too hot and will burn out, and I would also avoid units with non-common light bulb types (which means replacement bulbs are pricey as they are uncommon at best).