Avery Administrator
  • Male
  • from Phoenix, AZ
  • Member since Jun 19th 2020
  • Last Activity:

Posts by Avery

    I think it really depends on how many you want to keep, I know that for 1-2 frogs a 29-gallon long is really the best size (although ideally, bigger is always better - so something like a 40-gallon breeder could even provide more space for them to roam and grow in).


    They do need water, and it really depends on how this slope is and what you may mean by halfway in the tank. Does the water start at the 50% middle line, or does it start a tad further? You can always have pockets of water/mini-ponds within the tank for them to use which is common with people who can build them with rocks/decoration and still allow for them to have a slope-like feature.

    I normally clean mine out about once a week since the ones within my turtle tank tend to get dirty and basically clogged semi-frequently. Otherwise, I'd say maybe once a month or whenever I see it's noticeable dirty and restricted the flow of water through.

    Do you know if those of us using Tapatalk will still gain Coins or the levels that you discuss? The only reason being is that I’m unable to see it through the app specifically.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Yes - all Tapatalk, WSC-Connect, and normal users will still gain and get Coins as any normal user would who visits through a web browser. As far as using the Shop once we add it to spend the Coins you earn, I don't believe Tapatalk or WSC-Connect will be able to access these areas since they are rather custom to our community compared to others.

    How fast do they multiply?

    It really depends on how many males and females you have. I regularly see the males clamping against the females (and sometimes they do this to males), but their real issue is that their eggs will float and look like food. Once they drop the frogs either tend to eat them, or they get sucked in the filter intake which kills them. You really need floating pieces of plants to provide the hiding spots so the tadpoles can swim and have a filter turned pretty much all of the way down.

    I’d probably get some driftwood since they require it for their diet, and maybe get some long pieces of wood that have a hollow center that is aquarium safe. Otherwise, try to make some type of blacked-out area so they can escape from any light source if needed.

    +1 on Gilbert. I’d watch the gourami, and probably drop the gourami for rams in a heartbeat since they are more colorful and tend to be more peaceful with everything else listed.


    Danios would stay near the top and probably a nice dither fish aspect for the barbs and rams, where endlers tend to go all over overall.

    I’d avoid placing the acara with goldfish (let alone goldfish with angel fish) as they require two different temperate environments and tank sizes completely.

    As always, if you have any photos that you have personally taken of any species (healthy, or ill) please send them our way to use for our species profile pages (we'll give you credit, as always for helping us share to others who might not know what they are looking for). Thank you!

    Betta fish have such a wide personality that it can be hard to say that they may be completely fine with your shrimp (some will keep pecking at them as if they are food, etc.). Some good fish are normally those of similar size (tetras are a good example), or those commonly referred to as dither fish (almost all species of danios for example).

    Can you define dying? Are the leaves turning yellow and then fading away, or is something else going on?


    How far away from the surface of the water are the plants located, and does your water test just fine (do you have fish in there, shrimp, or any other sort of livestock)?

    I can't think of any fish that can't digest cucumber, although what tends to happen is the fish will eat more than they can actually handle (they are opportunistic feeders and will overeat) so they will end up bloated. I'd try to place smaller pieces in the tank, or possibly do it overnight so the shrimp have a better chance of finishing it off compared to the fish that should be sleeping.

    I wouldn't say that they are common, but they are the unfortunate part of keeping any animal that has been bred elsewhere, shipped (where their immunity really drops and they can become infected easily), and then placed into their final aquarium once purchased from a store that is also holding them in a community styled tank.


    I would always suggest asking what treatment any fish has been given once it has arrived at the fish store, and trying to watch for it over a period of time > 5 minutes to make sure that it's acting normal (especially once it comes to eating). As always, I HIGHLY recommend placing the fish into a quarantine tank for a few weeks just to make sure that the fish doesn't show any other illnesses that it may not have displayed at the fish store.

    Since a vast majority of algae tends to come when there is a chemical imbalance, and that can normally be solved with dosing the correct fertilizers to provide the balance needed, have you tried to remove algae this way or not? The only big reason that I can see this being a backup method, is that it does require dosing every day and the changes won't be rapid (it can take a while for the algae to all die off).

    How are thinkings going with your tank?


    This looks similar to how I had my shrimp tank set up when I had them in a 10-gallon. I still have the same amazon sword plant too. I just have it in the smaller tank now in a pot. I have had to cut it down a few times, especially after an issue with black beard but it held on.

    They are going well! I actually have had them mate a few times, but due to the lack of plants I have on the surface of the water, the eggs didn't hatch (or did hatch, but got sucked into the filter). I'm working on adding a pre-filter sponge to the intake, along with getting more plants to be at the surface of the water to protect the eggs.