I’ll look into fixing this permission issue so that you can close your own threads vs. having to request or wait for a moderator to do so.
Once this has been resolved I’ll close this thread out - thanks!
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I’ll look into fixing this permission issue so that you can close your own threads vs. having to request or wait for a moderator to do so.
Once this has been resolved I’ll close this thread out - thanks!
Closing this as the author has noted it has been sold (one of one item).
Any hints on when the next one will be by chance?
We’re still awaiting for a few more weeks before we hear any rumored dates - stay tuned!
Ironically I’ve asked my locale store about this a handful of times. I know they have them in their distribution centers as of a few weeks ago - but for some reason they have yet to ship them out to the stores themselves. Not sure if they are trying to breed them within the chain to lower cost (internally) while boosting profits, or if they are planning on something else entirely.
A lot of time fish will change color as they mature and age out. This can be slight changes, up to a full on color change (such as going from white/black coloration to gold for example).
Other times they can change color due to them showing dominance in the fish (cichlids are known to do this as the most dominant fish will be a more unique color) or due to their gender (Auratus cichlids for example).
With everything going on ranging from the various wild fires, to extreme heat in some regions, it can be HUGELY important to have a backup plan in case there are any rolling power outages in your area. Some of the following are either short term or long term solutions, that kind of have their own set of pros and cons.
As far as heaters, I have yet to find a heater that works and is battery powered. You may need to get a UPS, or try to find a better solution (dependent on your area, make a fire and use river rocks and heat them and then place them into your tank if its extremely cold outside - just make sure to watch the water temperature so it doesn't overheat or get way to hot fast).
With the big difference in how the heat is exhausted in different types or chillers, and their specific setup within the tank, which chiller do you use and how would you rate it?
Since buying some foods can be ideal (and easy), in some cases (specifically with fry or smaller fish) - have you ever made your own food supply such as with brine shrimp, daphnia, etc.? If so - how successfully was it?
I feel like they will sadly sell them regardless since there are far too many people who want to get a cheap pet and think that fish bowls are the way to go. In some stores, you can tell the fish bowls are barely touched since they are coated in dust/dirt.
I’ve seen plenty of people and places use fake coral since it’s by far less demanding, allows for the fish and appearance from afar to look like real coral, and let’s places/people just focus on the fish vs. have to deal with coral and the fish.
Time to win! Do we post when we follow the bonus entries too??
Nope, just once as you did to confirm you are wanting to enter into this contest. Once the contest period ends, we’ll calculate every user to see if they have none (or multiple) of those filled out and will then check who follows us on where based on those usernames/profile names.
Heaters tend to break when they are turned on/off too much, or if there isn’t enough flow around them which results in them heating the water too much around their area.
Some good brands include (in my opinion);
Aqueon, Ehemin, Jagex, Fluval.
Some brands that are iffy for a ton of reasons include Marineland and Tetra
If you want to avoid all of those (and the hassle with a soil based substrate capped with sand), you can always try some of the following;
Seachem Flourite
Carib Sea Eco Complete
Fluval Stratum
Seachem Oynx
They normally use pre-loaded volcanic clay that holds onto fertilizers and releases them over time. Normally if you use those, throw in root tabs before laying down, and then dose fertilizers like once a month it will pretty much stay charged for a very long time (others the charge normally lasts for a few months to a year before being depleted and needing to be recharged via dosing).
There are tons of common saltwater algae types, including the same types we see in freshwater. Those include;
Hair Algae, Brown Algae (Diatoms), Green Algae, Red Algae (Cyanobacteria), and what is known as Bubble Algae.
I agree, I think that they are pretty cool looking and when done right, can really make a tank look super cool. The only downfall is that many of the GloFish tanks that are sold as a kit tend to be WAY smaller than what is required for the fish that are being sold.
Their original reason for becoming a thing (to have researchers be able to tell if the water is safe, not toxic, and could be drinkable when boiled) was genius.
I honestly haven’t done much to this tank. Currently it’s growing good plant wise, and the snails have a massive population. I might start trying to sell these snails since maybe people charge an arm and a leg compared to giving them out for pennies on the dollar.
It’s actually pretty easy, here are some of the steps. The biggest thing is to make sure that you get the bleach out of the Purgien otherwise if you add it back it will kill all of your fish.
Some highly good beginner plants that take in low light (and need really nothing) include; Java fern, Java Moss, Anacharis, Water Wisteria, Anubias, Marino Moss Balls, Hornwort, and lastly Guppy Grass.
African Dwarf Frogs are slightly blind (they mostly go by the smell in the water and their hose and also by the feeling they get from the water movement around them. A lot of times it’s just recommend to either have them in their own tank (as they take their time eating), or to try and feed them at night since the other fish should be sleeping and it will give them a better advantage when it comes to finding the food first.
Dependent on what that area that you picked the tank up from, it could be hard water stains (mostly an obvious sign of it disappears when it’s wet or filled with water but appears as it drys out).
To get rid of those, I’d just recommend using vinegar and a rough rag (some people even highly recommend using those magic erasers). I would personally avoid using any harsh chemicals since it tends to be harder to get those out of the aquarium when it dries or washing them out since some may slightly soak into the silicone.
I’ve had some in WAY worse shape due to the hard water where I live, but after an hour of rubbing it all out it should come off with ease.