Posts by Avery

I think the best way to answer those is the following;

1) Make sure that the clam tends to spend as little time as possible in the air, and you place it relatively similar to how it was in the prior tank/setup.

2) I never have but I don’t see how a soft brushed toothbrush would do any damage (personally).

3) Slowly and gently wiggle/pull the clam, do not use force or grab it with crushing like grip/force.

Good luck!

End of year 50% off sale started on Tuesday, now's the time to get another tank for those of you who wanted a late Christmas gift!

This would work, although not to the super high standard that a dedicated protein skimmer works (since they mix water around a filter to get it out of the water itself vs. just the surface of the water). Just make sure that the protein skimmer attachment isn't able to be knocked down easily, and that it goes through the filter vs. just being sucked into the output directly (I've seen some filters do this).

To answer the question in your thread title, the reason why only saltwater fish can live in saltwater is due to them being able to process the salt through their organs/gills. There are some brackish, and very few freshwater fish that can live in saltwater (they have a special organ that can allow them to process saltwater), but other fish would slowly die due to them not being able to separate and process the salt in the water.

Since snails can pass randomly even when they are fully healthy (just due to old age), how often do you do a snail check to ensure that they have moved (and are alive)?

I personally will try to just check on them once a week or bi-weekly (with every species, to make sure that they are getting enough food, not stuck somewhere since I've had that happen before), but won't truly go on a search by moving things around if I don't see them for a full month or so.

As the title states, do you have multiple testing tools or kits available in case you get an extremely odd result when using a refractometer (or something similar that is digital in readout)? How often have you found yourself double-checking or having to reset some of the digital tools since they are starting to skew out too far with their results from what the values actually are?

I've done it a few times, but I would first use the biggest spray option or bit for your pressure washer to make sure you aren't throwing rocks around or any hard things that would end up scratching the heck out of the tank walls. I would also avoid any very specific bit that could damage the acrylic by causing hairline spots that bow or remove the acrylic (especially around the seams since those are chemically bonded).

Have you tried to grow any of the grasses out there, inside of your tanks, and did you have good luck in getting it to take off and grow?

I know that many may believe that seagrass, manatee grass, turtle grass, or eelgrass are macro-algae (and grow for this purpose), but they are actually some of the few species of plants that survive within saltwater. I remember when I was first learning about these grass types and trying to grow them, without realizing that they have some decent requirements dependent on which species you plan to have.

Out of all of them that you have found, either that are within your own tank, or others, what is the craziest critter that you have seen, and what made it so crazy? Yes, this also does include those random hitchhikers that seem to sneak in over time that may not be discovered right away.

Looks like they still have some Cyber Monday deals going on (won't be tracked here), I'll be curious if they keep them going the full week or end it after tonight once the website refreshes.

What is the schedule that you have set for the lights on your tanks?

For me, I have mine to slowly come on around 6:30 AM (right when everyone gets up so the living room lights don’t scare them with shadows) and then turn off fully around 6:30PM slowly (have them set where one out of the two light fixtures turns off and than 30mins later the other does to mimic the sun going down - similar to how I have it set when they first come on).

Almost pulled the trigger on the 120-gallon can't kit set for the turtle tank - but I had to take some measurements since I’d need to rebuild the dry dock I have (as it's far too short length-wise), and I also need to see how big the turtle will grow shell wise since it has multiple braces at the top (which I’d try to avoid so the turtle can have the full surface to use as a dry dock or swim around).

I did pick up some extra canister filter media, and some discounted fish food.

Here is a good picture of the level of black beard algae I’m attacking. Ironically it's cleared up from a large portion of the tank (while also turning my plants pretty bare in terms of leaves and whatnot). Otherwise, dosing hydrogen peroxide seems to be attacking it head-on without any major issues that others have faced. I've moved the water outlet pipe (the dry dock is wet in the photos since I was testing where to move it towards for better water circulation), and have slightly shifted the dry rock back a little bit to anchor it down better as the turtle is digging randomly which has shifted it forward and made it wobbly.

I do have a few baby cichlids roaming the tank (which can be seen by other screenshots I took today), and the turtle is healthier than ever. Still has the odd spot on its shell that did appear as shell rot when I first picked it up, but at this point, I believe it's just the coloration since it hasn't gotten worse or better over the past 2 years.

I tend to just go with those that don’t have fillers for the first few ingredients - but I’ve given my fish mixed brands (and those free samples you get from some tank kits or randomly when you buy combo products).

I try to feed mostly Omega One, and Fluval. When nothing else is in stock I’ll buy Aqueon as a decent backup option.

Is anyone trying to grab some of the early Black Friday deals a bunch of retailers have or are you waiting for Petsmart/Petco to release their Black Friday ad to see if they will keep the tradition of their tanks and canister filters being marked down heavily?

When you purchased and installed your canister filter, did you use the included (if there was any included with the purchase) tubing for the canister filter, or did you buy a smaller/larger tubing size to accommodate your filter and tank setup better?

How would you describe how your fish tank water smells when you smell it from above?

I'd say it tends to smell like wet wood after it has rained, nothing chemical-like but more earthy-like.

We're starting to see errors being generated from Tapatalk (nothing critical, but it is created degraded with functionality so some features of Tapatalk may show as empty when searching). I've created a support ticket with Tapatalk for them to resolve this, and they noted that they are working on an updated version to fix this. Will keep you all posted as that is released and functionality is back to normal, thank you!

I personally prefer Eco-Complete as it tends to be a far more uniform size in comparison to Flourite, although both are basically the same thing just dosed in the bag with a different liquid to provide slightly different nutrients from the get-go.

The bigger question should be do you prefer the gravel like shape or would you go with their sand like versions, since that can limit you on color options if I recall correctly.

As with any chemical, the most efficient form tends to be the form that has the most surface volume exposed to the water. In this case, the answer would be the form where it's smashed the most down inside of a mesh-like bag that can hold it in place but allow for water to pass through it.

I normally tend to place carbon (when I use it), somewhere that can be serviced rather easily due to its small lifespan within the water - whether this is specifically placing it in a HOB filter, or when in a canister filter, in the top tray to make it easy for quick removal when the time comes.