Posts by Avery

I'd say that it really depends on your species of fish. Maybe times feeding once every other day works best (since fish in the wild don't get fed every single day), but the only exception to this rule would be fish that don't have a stomach (ex; Goldfish), or if you have higher temperatures in the water than ideal (ex; >80F degrees would probably be best to feed a smaller amount each day since their metabolism is increased).

The best part is that when you start to make that association that whenever you are near the tank, it means feeding time, and they start to head to the surface or swim as close as possible to the glass of the tank to get “closer” to you and follow you around if you move/walk.

If you are a fish breeder (or accidentally breeder from those species that reproduce like crazy), what do you do to make sure that the fry and parents don’t get attacked or eaten by other fish (and for some species protecting the fry from the parents themselves)? Do you use a breeder box, another tank, and how do you make sure you don’t shock the fry from moving them from one tank water to another?

A year or two ago, the biggest con was pricing - LEDs were insanely expensive compared to their bulb and ballast counterparts. Nowadays, LEDs are the go to option due to their extremely low price and almost lifetime lifespan. The biggest con these days with LEDs is the fact that many are so badly underpowered (trying to cut costs), so you end up with a light that is just helpful for visually seeing but not helpful for any plant growth (for freshwater tanks) or coral growth (for saltwater tanks).

I highly recommend not using any type of harsh chemical, since you have to really clean it with water to make sure none of it leaches out or is left in any tiny amounts once you are done. I clean pretty badly coffered algae tanks with white vinegar, a rough sponge (think scrub-daddy sponge material), and using a bunch of arm strength to get it all off.

My personal favorite schooling fish are Neon Tetra. In large numbers they just look like a bunch of shiny fish moving all at once and their metallic like coloration makes them pop even more.

You can honestly use any, it really depends on the plants you want to keep. Many people use LEDs that have various coloration on their normal setting (so blue, green, red, and normal white LEDs on) to promote all colorations for plant growth.

Other times if you need high light, you can use ballasts since they promote far more PAR at a cheaper price but need to be replaced (the bulbs) once they die out.

Ironically, I don't think that I have ever personally seen a collar aquarium pump on any tank - but after looking online and seeing it's an extremely small air pump that mounts on the tank itself, I might have to give this a shot whenever I have someone who has a setup that needs an air pump that is quiet.

Have you ever tried to take the trim that is around your tank, and replace it with anything else or a different possible design? Did you contact the manufacture directly to order this, or did you get this from one of their suppliers?

I agree that any uneaten food could be marked as a sign of not eating, although the biggest sign would be any type of bloat problems with any fish, or they are growing rather larger in terms of width compared to overall size. I'd say to slowly drop in enough food so that you can watch each fish get a few pieces, since their stomachs are only the size of their eyeballs in many species (it is far easier to overfeed fish than it is to underfeed).

I think it honestly depends on how big is your tank, what are your lighting requirements/that you have, and also are you looking for some more background coverage plants that match yours already? Do you have any decorations that you are trying to place plants around with?

I've seen them at many of my local fish stores, but I personally haven't ever kept them. The sad part is that many don't know that they need access to air directly, or that they do need some salt in their tank in order to molt correctly (they are not purely freshwater). As you even pointed out, sand is ideal since with gravel they can break their legs/claw which then makes them prone to infection or not being able to move when they need to.

I agree - I believe it's honestly really about trying to feed the fish/fishes in your aquarium, with the correct diet, and to their feeding needs. Fish that don't have any stomachs (as you noted, like Goldfish) will need to be fed far more frequently compared to fish that do. Temperature and other conditions can also play a factor in feeding since many fish during colder temperatures, may not actually need any food (or very limited) as their metabolism slows down.

Quote from Gilbert

I wonder if they are going to do more of these flash sales you noted compared to keeping the cadence of the event sales next.

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Possibly, it definitely is interesting to see them try out various marketing aspects when it comes to this sale (30% vs. 50%, 50% vs. $1/gal) and then trying to have it renamed to other aspects.

It really depends on how much protein buildup that you have, along with how much waste and debris is collecting on the surface of the water. Ideally, you can try to find some types of specialty filters that have a skimmer build into them for marine tanks to avoid buying a standalone protein skimmer.

Since there are so many options for having a top on your aquarium, having no top, or making a mixture of them per each tank and what it holds within - what is your go-to for your tanks in your household, and do you have just 1 type of top or do you have a variety?

I think a key thing to say, would be that all amphibians at some point if their lifespan/lifecycle require(d) water. But this is very true!

It really depends on their species as well, not all of them or even just fish should specifically eat just pellets (highly recommended to feed a balanced diet of 3-4 different types of food brands and food types in order to allow for them to get all the nutrients that they need).

Do you know by chance what amphibians you are talking about?

Do you know specifically what fish species you have and your specific substrate? Have you tested the water source that you are adding into the tank and see if it's that high? If so, you may want to look up RO water in your local area, and try to add in things like driftwood to lower the pH overall for the tank.

As far as temperature, it sounds like you may need either a heater (if 36 degrees is noted to be Celsius) or a chiller (if 36 degrees is noted to be Fahrenheit).

Lighting honestly really exists for two main reasons;

1) It allows us to look inside the water and see the fish. This also helps the fish regulate their day/night cycle and hunt, find food, and avoid other fish in the tank that may be larger than them through sight.

2) If you have any corals (for saltwater tanks) or plants, this will help them grow as without any light there aren't too many corals/plants that can thrive within the water column (at least, without having a pressurized tank for deeper depths).