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Yeah, there are real ones from companies that will sell you the tank and equipment, and even let you purchase the jellyfish from them as well (I have no idea how they do shipping to avoid them arriving dead on arrival). I don’t know which companies have bad or good reviews since the cheapest tanks are like $400-600, which prices them out for a majority of people.
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Check a valve that you can manually adjust to lower the airflow into the tubing. Otherwise, try to find an adjustable air pump (although in all reality, the valve should be easy to get on Amazon in a slightly bulk setting).
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Do you think that the social pressures of others who may view your tank come into effect as well? Or do you just go with your gut and own instincts when getting it all set up based on your original thought/idea(s)?
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If you have ever purchased driftwood from a store that isn’t in water, you'll notice it always tends to float. How long did it take for your piece of driftwood to sink (and did you boil it, or weigh/tie it down to help)?
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How frequently do you redo the seals on your tank, and do you do yourself or do you take the tank (or have someone come over) to do the job?
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I keep seeing ads on Facebook and other outlets about these new jellyfish tank kits, that include a circular tank (with filter and water pump to keep the movement going), a water treatment kit to turn regular water into saltwater, and I believe a cooler to keep the water the perfect temperature. Plus, after you set it up and send them a sample of the water - they ship you 2-5 jellyfish to put in the tank.
Are these kits new in their idea, or just becoming more popular the to jellyfish being so unique and hard to keep in general?
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What is your go to method in order to get timid fish more social and active in the tank? I know the most common method is the use of dither fish, but do you have any special aspects that you use or create to make them feel more secure in their tank?
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Out of the two most commonly used planted tank substrates, which one do you use and why? Does one have more pros or cons compared to the other, and what makes your decision final on which one to go with?
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Since there are different forms of carbon, whether it be in a bag crushed up into a powder like format or in a cube/crystal form, what is your preferred method for placing carbon into your filter(s)?
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Wonder if that will be the new normal in order to clear out older inventory (especially with the looming recession occurring in the US due to super high inflation).
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Smaller fish that can’t be food for the shrimp, but also fish that aren’t aggressive such as cichlids or those that would view shrimp and smaller creatures as food in the tank.
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It's kinda cool to see a fish change colors either due to environmental reasons or due to maturing. I think my favorite is probably a fish changing due to mating reasons as the shift can be drastic.
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Do you know if those of us using Tapatalk will still gain Coins or the levels that you discuss? The only reason being is that I’m unable to see it through the app specifically.
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There are light tints you can use (similar to what they use for a flashlight), just make sure that whatever light fixture you have the film can stand up to it. I’d even say a plastic wrap for cooking but if you have any heat outside of LEDs, then it would melt pretty fast.
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Pool filter can vary from color to color ironically, I’ve had some bags almost pure white and others white with other specks of sand that are grey/brown/black.
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Good list, I'd probably do 3M 6F for the cherry barbs (the males really stun with their coloration). If you aren’t worried about breeding, I’d even suggest your original 4M 5F or split more makes than females due to their lovely coloration.
As far as endler vs. gourami, if you want a tank full of colors I’d go endler and ditch the gourami. Otherwise keep danios and watch out for any aggression of gourami against rams (and more importantly the shrimp - gourami have such a difference in aggression levels for each fish so I’d watch it closely for a few days to make sure everything is good).
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Thanks for the follow up, that is what I has thought when they removed it all so suddenly without any PR statements.
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I’d say that it honestly has to do with the equipment needing to be able to handle salt, which in itself is a highly corrosive mineral that would cause for freshwater equipment to fail (seals to go out, metal parts to rust and break apart, etc.). This causes things to be more pricey since they have to hold up to that level of requirements, with a warranty, and be made differently than normal freshwater equipment to avoid rusting out.
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Newts are rough to have tank mates since they are either slow or tend to be super sensitive to other species around them. I’d honestly just have them as a species-only tank since they are unique enough to keep without other dither fish to keep them moving around to view.
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I’d say it's possible as it's exposed to water and light randomly throughout the day. To remove it in a drain, I'd just use bleach and a sponge (or even pure vinegar or something) and it should remove pretty easily.
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