Posts by Avery

Since there are a ton of different thickness of the filter pads, how thick of pads do you tend to use and is there any specific reason why you want that specific thickness compared to others?

It appears that Petco had a very small Labor Day weekend sale that matched the 50% off we normally see - since we aren't used to them traditionally having sales on holiday weekends/days, it was missed (but has been added to the past event tracker sheet for reference).

Have been fighting a battle with some of this lovely black beard algae, so I'll have to grab some more photos and attach them to this gallery album for this tank now that it's pretty cleaned up (although some of the plants have taken a hit in growth or their thickness). Otherwise, the cichlids have a ton of fry that the turtle seems to not want to eat - so I've handed them out to other shops/stores around me that want some free fry to either sell or use as bait for others. The cichlids completely ate the danios as they started to mate, and would be aggressive with the turtle but it stood its ground (no damage done whatsoever to either).

Cleaned out the canister filter, and skimmers after I had to do a bunch of doses of hydrogen peroxide and threw out a bunch of the sludge that has collected over time (and some filter pads just completely in terms of them being reusable). Added in some more filter media sponges to the skimmers to allow them to work and will just clean those out weekly now instead of having no filter media within them. Will need to buy another new o-ring seal for the filter however, as it started to gush out water like many people complain SunSun canister filters do after being cleaned out (plumber's tape solved this when placed thickly around the o-ring and where it connects). Have no issues with water dripping or leaking out at all.

I think it really depends on how many you want to keep, I know that for 1-2 frogs a 29-gallon long is really the best size (although ideally, bigger is always better - so something like a 40-gallon breeder could even provide more space for them to roam and grow in).

They do need water, and it really depends on how this slope is and what you may mean by halfway in the tank. Does the water start at the 50% middle line, or does it start a tad further? You can always have pockets of water/mini-ponds within the tank for them to use which is common with people who can build them with rocks/decoration and still allow for them to have a slope-like feature.

I normally clean mine out about once a week since the ones within my turtle tank tend to get dirty and basically clogged semi-frequently. Otherwise, I'd say maybe once a month or whenever I see it's noticeable dirty and restricted the flow of water through.

Quote from Gilbert

Do you know if those of us using Tapatalk will still gain Coins or the levels that you discuss? The only reason being is that I’m unable to see it through the app specifically.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes - all Tapatalk, WSC-Connect, and normal users will still gain and get Coins as any normal user would who visits through a web browser. As far as using the Shop once we add it to spend the Coins you earn, I don't believe Tapatalk or WSC-Connect will be able to access these areas since they are rather custom to our community compared to others.

Quote from Fogerty12

How fast do they multiply?

It really depends on how many males and females you have. I regularly see the males clamping against the females (and sometimes they do this to males), but their real issue is that their eggs will float and look like food. Once they drop the frogs either tend to eat them, or they get sucked in the filter intake which kills them. You really need floating pieces of plants to provide the hiding spots so the tadpoles can swim and have a filter turned pretty much all of the way down.

There are plenty that only occur in saltwater tanks (or even brackish), and many that occur in both are a result of a different parasite, or bacteria, or other aspect.

I’d probably get some driftwood since they require it for their diet, and maybe get some long pieces of wood that have a hollow center that is aquarium safe. Otherwise, try to make some type of blacked-out area so they can escape from any light source if needed.

I’d keep a very close eye on him, making sure that he isn’t just lying still on the tank bottom or surface. Gave him a few days to keep up with getting regulated before having issues with eating.

+1 on Gilbert. I’d watch the gourami, and probably drop the gourami for rams in a heartbeat since they are more colorful and tend to be more peaceful with everything else listed.

Danios would stay near the top and probably a nice dither fish aspect for the barbs and rams, where endlers tend to go all over overall.

I’d avoid placing the acara with goldfish (let alone goldfish with angel fish) as they require two different temperate environments and tank sizes completely.

As always, if you have any photos that you have personally taken of any species (healthy, or ill) please send them our way to use for our species profile pages (we'll give you credit, as always for helping us share to others who might not know what they are looking for). Thank you!

Betta fish have such a wide personality that it can be hard to say that they may be completely fine with your shrimp (some will keep pecking at them as if they are food, etc.). Some good fish are normally those of similar size (tetras are a good example), or those commonly referred to as dither fish (almost all species of danios for example).

Can you define dying? Are the leaves turning yellow and then fading away, or is something else going on?

How far away from the surface of the water are the plants located, and does your water test just fine (do you have fish in there, shrimp, or any other sort of livestock)?

I can't think of any fish that can't digest cucumber, although what tends to happen is the fish will eat more than they can actually handle (they are opportunistic feeders and will overeat) so they will end up bloated. I'd try to place smaller pieces in the tank, or possibly do it overnight so the shrimp have a better chance of finishing it off compared to the fish that should be sleeping.

We actually have a really detailed page about clamped fins, what it's causes are, and possibly treatments if you want to read more; https://aquariu.ms/freshwater/disease/clamped-fins/

I wouldn't say that they are common, but they are the unfortunate part of keeping any animal that has been bred elsewhere, shipped (where their immunity really drops and they can become infected easily), and then placed into their final aquarium once purchased from a store that is also holding them in a community styled tank.

I would always suggest asking what treatment any fish has been given once it has arrived at the fish store, and trying to watch for it over a period of time > 5 minutes to make sure that it's acting normal (especially once it comes to eating). As always, I HIGHLY recommend placing the fish into a quarantine tank for a few weeks just to make sure that the fish doesn't show any other illnesses that it may not have displayed at the fish store.

Based on previous dates, and the fact that they had a 2-month-long sale compared to normally 4-5 weeks, the new estimated date has been added.

Since a vast majority of algae tends to come when there is a chemical imbalance, and that can normally be solved with dosing the correct fertilizers to provide the balance needed, have you tried to remove algae this way or not? The only big reason that I can see this being a backup method, is that it does require dosing every day and the changes won't be rapid (it can take a while for the algae to all die off).