By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share, and private message with other members of our community.
Right now I plan on keeping them as a species-only tank since ideally, I'm looking to have them breed out.
I’m not too worried about them jumping since the water parameters are good, and the lid I have on this mostly covers the whole tank but a gap in the back between the heater and filter output.
I personally do not, since most of the fish tend to avoid being next to the heater (even my turtle does), although I would place a shield if it was in an area that fish may get trapped in (such as an enclosure, for example).
I think it really depends on what you have going down that drain, and how frequently it is used. I'm sure, like anything that has to handle water, algae can form and grow over time. A perfect example of this would be a shower, which can form brown algae when not cleaned over a very long time period (and green algae if exposed to sunlight).
Looks like they started the sale earlier than we expected - it’s going on now until August 1st!
Looks like they are mixing it up again, I missed on my radar the 20% off tank sale on anything bigger than 40 gallon breeder tanks (I'll start to focus on these more often since they seem to be running a 20-30% off sale on specific tanks in-between the 50% off sales).
Terrestrial just means that they are on the land, whereas marine invertebrates tend to include those that stay within the water fully (unless you get into species like crabs or turtles which go in and out).
Can you define your question to be more precise by chance? Like are you looking for care difference, or size, or if you can keep them inside of an aquarium or not easily?
I'd just say that making sure you have all of the equipment beforehand, works ideal. Having tubes to do water changes easier, buckets for holding everything else, and also having sponges/brushes in order to clean the aquarium glass or any decorations that may have any debris from waste/food leftover that could be stuck in.
I think the term "too much light" really can mean "lights on too long" since fish require to have a day and night cycle like humans and other species (unless you talk about species that live in pitch-black their whole life). Algae can grow in either condition where there is excess light, or sometimes when there isn't truly enough (it may appear discolored as it's growing and dying at the same time).
A 30-gallon tank is a decent size for them when they are younger, although as they grow and reach their adult size, ideally you would need 120+ gallons (for a single species). If you are trying to keep multiple lion fish within an aquarium, I'd say it's safer to go with 200+ gallons in order to have enough room for them to not hit or run into each other as they explore their habitat.
To be fair, it's nothing that you may be doing, but rather than poor genetics when it comes to guppies and other super popular freshwater aquarium fish. Dropsy is normally just a term for when a fish has liquid collecting inside of its abdomen when it shouldn't (and hence its bloated, scales that are spike-like).
I think it really depends on if you want to go with all new equipment or try to get second-hand used equipment - and also how you want to set up your tank in terms of equipment style/types (ex; protein skimmer or not). I'd say a good safe bet is anywhere between $300-800, which is super vague but can cover everything you need for a 30-gallon tank.
Is this your first tank, or have you done others that are saltwater? Ideally lion fish need far bigger than a 30-gallon tank unless you plan to re-home it once it gets bigger from a smaller size.
Since my children have hit summer break, one of the teachers had a few of these and other fish species that they were trying to give away to the parents. I decided I'd take some of these frogs, and put them into a more ideal tank setup that only has them as a species and check if I can get some of them to breed.
Detailed Information
Tank: Top Fin 10 Gallon
Filter: Top Fin 10 Gallon Adjustable Filter HOB (set to middle setting)
Lighting: Stock (Top Fin Gallon LED fixture)
Substrate: Fluval Plant Stratum
Flora: Anubias Congesis (3x), Amazon Swords (2x)
Fauna: African Dwarf Frog (8x), Mystery Snail (2x)
Are you able to upload a photo by chance to make sure that what you are quoting/referencing is actually Brown Diatoms?
I believe this really can only be determined by your stocking and your tank's rated volume of water. You wouldn't want to put a canister filter in a 10-gallon tank since it would blow around the water way too fast for most all species.
I would say in my experience, it would go (from best to worst); Canister Filters, Internal Filters, Hang On Back Filters, Undergravel Filters.
I would say it's a mixed bag of yes and no. Ideally, you want to feed a balanced diet to all fish, containing at least a difference of 2-3 foods that are fed on a rotation. However, due to the size difference between bigger fish and the diet each species needs based on where it's mostly located, I would say more on the no size to make sure that you have the correct diet being fed to each fish (and that the food can fit within their mouth).
I'd say that it really depends on your species of fish. Maybe times feeding once every other day works best (since fish in the wild don't get fed every single day), but the only exception to this rule would be fish that don't have a stomach (ex; Goldfish), or if you have higher temperatures in the water than ideal (ex; >80F degrees would probably be best to feed a smaller amount each day since their metabolism is increased).
The best part is that when you start to make that association that whenever you are near the tank, it means feeding time, and they start to head to the surface or swim as close as possible to the glass of the tank to get “closer” to you and follow you around if you move/walk.
If you are a fish breeder (or accidentally breeder from those species that reproduce like crazy), what do you do to make sure that the fry and parents don’t get attacked or eaten by other fish (and for some species protecting the fry from the parents themselves)? Do you use a breeder box, another tank, and how do you make sure you don’t shock the fry from moving them from one tank water to another?
A year or two ago, the biggest con was pricing - LEDs were insanely expensive compared to their bulb and ballast counterparts. Nowadays, LEDs are the go to option due to their extremely low price and almost lifetime lifespan. The biggest con these days with LEDs is the fact that many are so badly underpowered (trying to cut costs), so you end up with a light that is just helpful for visually seeing but not helpful for any plant growth (for freshwater tanks) or coral growth (for saltwater tanks).
I highly recommend not using any type of harsh chemical, since you have to really clean it with water to make sure none of it leaches out or is left in any tiny amounts once you are done. I clean pretty badly coffered algae tanks with white vinegar, a rough sponge (think scrub-daddy sponge material), and using a bunch of arm strength to get it all off.
